It takes 1,000 butterflies to weigh one pound (.45kg), and the branches on this tree were sagging under the weight.

The monarch colony here was quite different than at the more popular El Rosario sanctuary. 40 minutes outside Zitacuaro, near El Capulin, we chartered a couple of tiny mountain horses to take us up the rugged path to view the colony. The monarchs were clustered within a ravine, swirling around a few choice pine trees in search of sunny roosts. Whenever the sun went behind a cloud the butterflies scrambled into the air and back to the safety of the nucleus, knowing that settling down for the night outside the warmth of the colony would mean certain death.

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