20km north east of Ayacucho, on the road to Quinua (not sure if the position on the map is EXACTLY correct) are the ruins of the capital of the Wari empire.

The Wari ruled from 600AD to 1100AD and therefore pre-date the Incas.

The extensive ruins are scattered among endless fields of Opuntia cacti and Prickly Pear, and these were more of a fascination to me than the ruins themselves.

Despite being so exposed, the site felt quite mysterious and strangely eerie: we didn't see a single other tourist there, but we did see swarms of locusts (which, at first we mistook for birds).

It's a beautiful spot, the views are amazing on a clear day and you'll see plenty of colourful butterflies and flowers. But remember to bring water, as the site is literally in the middle of nowhere, so there are no opportunities to purchase any nearby.

You can catch a local bus, combi or shared taxi to the ruins, but be wary of stopping too late. We stayed until dusk, and ended up having to hitch a ride back to Ayacucho because - I assume - we'd missed the last lot of public transportation heading that way.

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