"It was a privilege to stay in the old town next to the castle in Gjirokaster. High above the modern city, next to castle and the old bazaar, it was not only convenient but an experience of a life from another time. Ever wonder what it’s like living way up on the hill in the castle? Last night residing in the old town, adjoining the castle, was that experience. Too high for any city lights to penetrate, it was dark skies. Only the stars and a sliver of the moon. No sound. Not traffic,...